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FROM SUBTLE TO STRIKING, MASTER THE ART OF CONTRAST MAKE UP

four models smiling al wearing a strawberry shade of lipstick. The model on the top right is asian with dark hair, on the top left is a model with dark eyebrows and freckles, bottom right is a mid toned model looking away and the bottom left is a deep toned model smiling broadly looking away from the camera. Shot in a studio against a white background

We’ve found our undertones, mastered the feline flick, discovered the perfect shade of red lipstick and even worked out where to apply our blush, but does your make up *still* not feel quite right?

Making the rounds on TikTok and gracing our FYP with the accompanying filter, French make up artist Alienor Bernardie, launched the idea of ‘Contrast Make Up’ in October 2024 and it’s caused *quite* a stir.

Although make up has no rules, the idea of utilising our natural colouring to enhance our natural features sounds like a seriously intriguing idea...

WHAT IS CONTRAST MAKE UP THEORY

Similar to how photographers use shadows and highlight when playing with contrast on their images, Alienor suggests that the same ideology can be used to determine where you fall on the contrast scale — and therefore how to best use make up to enhance your natural features.

What do we mean by contrast scale? We’re glad you asked. The idea stems from the scale by which your hair, eyebrows and eyes contrast with your skin. For example, a person with a fair complexion, blonde hair and light eyes would be considered Low Contrast, while somebody with fair skin, dark eyes and eyebrows would be considered High Contrast. This also works regardless of your skin tone. To put it into context, Beyonce is considered Low Contrast and Zoe Kravitz is High.

Whether you use Alienor’s TikTok Filter or filter your own photos using the black and white scale, discover how you can elevate your make up to seriously suit your features...

LOW CONTRAST

If you’re considered Low Contrast, this means that the difference of value between the colour of your skin, eyes and hair is low and feels as if they’re on the same greyscale. It’s perceived as soft and ethereal with a ‘no-make up make up’ look working best. Think wispy lashes, soft pink lips and barely-there blush.

For reference, Elle Fanning, Lupita Nyong’o, Gigi Hadid and of course Queen B would all be considered Low Contrast. Heavy make up, dark shadows and pops of pigment on the lips work against your contrast scale so when applying your make up, a less is more approach works wonders...

MEDIUM CONTRAST

If you fall under a Medium Contrast, this means that there is a slight variation in value between your skin, hair, eyes and eyebrows. Your make up therefore should bring balance and equilibrium to your overall look. This is achieved by adding a dash of intensity to your lips, cheeks and eyes. It’s suggested to go for ‘pinched’ cheek tones of pink and rose *and* a dash of bronze. The eyes should be subtle – complementing the tones used across the rest of your make up.

For reference, Zendaya, Jessica Alba and Emma Watson all fall under this category. Here, it’s all about harmony— no harsh lines or colours and a seamless, natural hint of tint.

HIGH CONTRAST

As the name would suggest, someone who falls under the High Contrast category has a high value difference between their face, hair, brows and eyes. A person with pale skin, dark eyes and dark hair is the epitome of High Contrast. The idea behind make up to suit this contrast is to soften the contrast. Smoky eyes, dark red lips, contour and bronzing work like make up magic. By being more strategic, you’re adding back intensity, making your overall look much more aligned.

Anna Hathaway, EmRata and Zoe Kravitz are members of the High Contrast collective. Bronzer, contour and dark smoky shadows should be your make up go-tos.

Et Voila! You’ve mastered the Contrast Make Up method... But don’t forget, make up is joyful, imaginative and fun, so even *if* you’re a Low Contrast, you can still enjoy a bold, bright lip if you really want to!

SHOP ALL MAKE UP >>>
Rina Teslica
Rina Teslica Writer and expert

Rina is Cult Beauty’s Junior SEO Copywriter and has always had a passion for beauty and skin care (rich moisturisers are her obsession). What started as a love for The Body Shop and their famed Born Lippy lip balms (in ‘Watermelon’ of course!), she is now more interested in finding products with proven effectiveness instead of broken promises. A loud and proud VIEVE fan, Rina owns nearly every item of the range and recommends the brand to anyone who will listen... When she’s not intently reading ingredient lists, you can find her either immersed in multiple true crime podcasts or co-hosting her own parenting one, with an *extra* hot cappuccino in hand.

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