Ingredient in Focus: Ceramides

First things first: what are ceramides? Well — you’ll often hear skin talked about in terms of ‘bricks’ and ‘mortar’ — the bricks being the cells, the mortar being all the ‘stuff’ that holds the cells together, roughly 40% of which is {ceramides}. They’re a crucial part of skin’s barrier (something that’s currently having an overdue turn in the dermatological spotlight — probably due to the years we spent striving to shed our dead cells in pursuit of that ‘freshly hatched’ glow), which means they’re critical for keeping ‘good stuff’ in and ‘bad stuff’ out but, our {skin}’s natural levels deplete with the passage of time (quelle surprise).  

WHAT DO CERAMIDES DO FOR SKIN? 

A large component of the ‘glue’ that holds skin’s defences together, ceramides are produced naturally however, as levels begin to decline this can lead to a weakened skin barrier. And it isn’t just age that can compromise ceramide levels — all that acid toning? While it’s great (in moderation), if you’re ever over-zealous you can leave your face susceptible to dryness, irritation, breakouts... you name it (never has the phrase ‘too much of a good thing’ been more applicable).  

For this reason, treatments that help to replenish skin’s ceramide levels are an essential element of any skin care ritual — bolstering barrier function to shield from aggressors while helping to ward against water loss — keeping skin plump and preventing all-too-common tightness. 

And their talents don’t begin and end with bolstering skin’s ‘stratum corneum’ (the uppermost layer of dead surface cells that protects from aggressors and locks moisture in). No, ceramides make a great buffer for active ingredients (your acids and retinols) to lessen irritation if you’re prone to reactivity, as well as to safeguard skin’s health and resilience.  

In short, they’re calming, comforting, soothing, softening, protective, great for sensitive skin conditions (such as eczema)... In short, ceramides’ roll call of accomplishments makes compelling reading. 

WHAT ABOUT PHYTOCERAMIDES? 

Naturally occurring, long-chain fatty acids, ceramides and phytoceramides have the same structure (and function) but phytoceramides are plant-derived — whereas others could be synthesised or animal-derived. Phytoceramides (as found in The Ordinary’s new {Natural Moisturizing Factors + Phytoceramides}) are great for reassuring stressed or dehydrated skin, while helping to deflect the daily impact of aggressors (or a heavy-handed attitude to actives). 

ARE CERAMIDES GOOD FOR ACNE? 

Ceramides — unlike rich emollients — are great for oily, blemish-prone complexions, as well as for dry, stressed or compromised skin types. By gently ‘rebuilding’ skin’s protective layer, they help to reduce inflammation, relieve redness and gradually normalise skin that’s rebelling, making them a brilliant step in your acne-care regime, as well as indispensable for those with dry or dehydrated skin types.  

HOW DO I ADD CERAMIDES TO MY ROUTINE? 

While found in gentle creamy cleansers that eliminate the daily dirt without disrupting your skin’s delicate balance (look no further than CeraVe’s iconic {Hydrating Cleanser with Hyaluronic Acid} to comfort and plump), ceramides primarily reside in moisturisers — from lightweight gels for combination or congested skin, to rich, intensive eye creams made to fortify the fragile eye area. Opt for a texture that’s right for your skin type (avoid anything overly thick if you’re prone to clogged pores), then apply every morning to shield from pollution, as well as at night to protect and repair skin’s defences.  

So, eager to make friends with ceramides? Here are the top-rated picks of the ceramide crop! 

The Ordinary Natural Moisturizing Factors and PhytoCeramides Cream 100ml

87

£20.00

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CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser with Hyaluronic Acid for Normal to Dry Skin 236ml

DERMATOLOGIST RECOMMENDED

145

£12.50

236ml

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Glow Recipe Avocado Ceramide Recovery Serum 30ml

CULT CONSCIOUS

276

£41.00

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CeraVe Moisturising Cream Pot with Ceramides for Dry to Very Dry Skin 454g

DERMATOLOGIST RECOMMENDED

101

£17.00

454g

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The INKEY List Ceramide Serum 30ml

CULT CONSCIOUS

60

£13.00

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Dr.Jart+ Ceramidin Eye Cream 20ml

121

£31.00

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Dr.Jart+ Ceramidin Facial Barrier Mask 22g

45

£7.00

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Drunk Elephant Ceramighty AF Eye Balm

59

£54.00

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